Scene: The Palm Beach 1936

1936 , February

SCENE: THE PALM BEACH CASINO AT CANNES

February 1936. This on-the-spot sketch of Riviera resort fashions, quite aside from its obvious decorative ping, has its uses as a check-up on prevailing plage fashions, because our southern resort fashions follow those of the Riviera almost as closely and as constantly as lunch follows breakfast. The figure in the left foreground is typical of the resort dress of fashionably informed Englishmen and Frenchmen. From pork pie hat to crocodile shoes, with grey and white flannel between. Note that the double-breasted jacket has only four buttons instead of the usual six, also that it carries welt pockets and side vents. The muffler is blue silk foulard with white spots, usually worn over a light-weight polo shirt. The background figure shows the Cannes-engendered white linen beach shirt with navy blue pirate's stripes, which opens all the way down the front, worn with blue linen beach slacks and canvas espadrilles.

Style details

  • pork pie hat
  • crocodile shoes
  • grey and white flannel trousers
  • four button double breasted jacket (usual six)
  • welt pockets and side vents.
  • the muffler is blue silk foulard with white spots,
  • light-weight polo shirt.
1936 palm Beach

December 1934 – Blacker than black tuxedo

December 1934

Blacker than back is the midnight blue

 

This is the evening dress Outfit that partially standard equipment with London night lifers and is beginning to be seen in at the Smartest places in this country. The suit is of a fine fabric, in midnight blue instead of the conventional black. Actually. Light, it than tendency to appear Slightly greenish under the bright lights in the evening. Note. Epically with a. the extreme width and the stubby shortness of the lapels, that their facing is of a dull silk grosgrain. the shiny lapels out at the moment. Note that the shirt is of a tiny white linen, with white Studs. It opens at the front and has a row bosom. The high wing collar is wider than the white peal shape. The waistcoat is a singe breasted model, made backless, worn with black buttons. A distinguishing of feature this tailcoat is the absence of outside breast pocket. I Harvard red carnation worn as a boutonniere. It is made of feathers and its life is everlasting.

 

Esquire

Paul Newman in Venice, 1963 – in color.

Could have easily mistaken this for a dolce and gabbana ad today.

Paul Newman in Venice during a trip on a water taxi with St Mark Square in the background Wearing a tuxedo.

Promoting 1963's "Hud" at the Venice Film Festival, the actor exhibited an effortless masculinity that had Italians swooning.

 

The 24th annual Venice International Film Festival was held from 24 August to 7 September 1963

 

 

Style Detail

The three-buttoning waistcoat with silk lapel. (notice the shape of the lapel)

Jacket has silk peak-lapel button one

Black Tie Jacket

The most formal model of dinner jacket is the single-breasted model. The typical black tie jacket is single-breasted with one button only, with jetted (besom) pockets and is of black or midnight blue; made usually of wool–mohair or a wool, also silk, are seen. Traditional for the dinner jacket are wool barathea or superfine Super150s.

“Double breasted models are less common”

Dinner jackets were commonly ventless before the First World War, but today come ventless, with side vents, or with centre vents. The ventless style is considered more formal. The lapels (traditionally pointed and shawl) are usually faced with silk or grosgrain or a satin weave. A notched lapel is not always considered to be appropriate for a dinner jacket. The peaked lapel and shawl collar are more authentic and correct.

The buttons should be covered in similarly coloured material to the main part of the jacket, which would ideally be either self-faced or covered with the same material as the lapels. Higher-end single-breasted jackets, tend to be fastened with a link front closure which is similar to a cufflink.

“Simpler is more sophisticated”