The most formal model of dinner jacket is the single-breasted model. The typical black tie jacket is single-breasted with one button only, with jetted (besom) pockets and is of black or midnight blue; made usually of wool–mohair or a wool, also silk, are seen. Traditional for the dinner jacket are wool barathea or superfine Super150s.

“Double breasted models are less common”

Dinner jackets were commonly ventless before the First World War, but today come ventless, with side vents, or with centre vents. The ventless style is considered more formal. The lapels (traditionally pointed and shawl) are usually faced with silk or grosgrain or a satin weave. A notched lapel is not always considered to be appropriate for a dinner jacket. The peaked lapel and shawl collar are more authentic and correct.

The buttons should be covered in similarly coloured material to the main part of the jacket, which would ideally be either self-faced or covered with the same material as the lapels. Higher-end single-breasted jackets, tend to be fastened with a link front closure which is similar to a cufflink.

“Simpler is more sophisticated”